Everything you need to know about TEWL (transepidermal waterloss)
HYDRATION AND MOISTURIZATION are not the same.
A concern I would hear from clients is that they are using oils, thick moisturizers or balms marketed for ‘dry’ skin yet their skin still FEELS dry. Or worse- it feels tingly, tight or sensitive on top of being dry.
If the skin is dehydrated, moisturizing products with larger molecules will have a challenging time penetrating the skin due to the stiffness and stagnation that occurs with dehydration. Think of what would happen when you apply soap to a dry sponge. The soap will sit on top. Some will eventually work its way into the sponge but it would be challenging and take time. But, applying soap to a damp/hydrated sponge, the soap penetrates through easily.
If you experience chronic feelings of dehydration, tightness, and dryness, especially if you are using rich oils and balms, keep reading!
Here are my top 3 tips on how to increase skin hydration for a supple and more balanced skin.
Use Less Water
Water on the surface of the skin when it evaporates pulls any remaining moisture with it which disrupts the skins delicate acid mantle and PH balance. I recommend using a milky or lotion based cleanser as the primary cleanser all year round. The Laits for Biologique Recherche are beautiful at cleaning the skin, removing makeup yet not overs-tripping it. There are 4 different Laits to address unique skin types (dry/mature, sensitive, oily and dull/combination). They are applied onto DRY skin, then massaged into the skin for 1-2mins, then removed either with a damp cloth or moistened soft gauze. Minimal water and rinsing is involved. Double cleansing simply means washing your face twice. This is only recommended for healthy skin with intact barriers- not someone struggling with TEWL.
Products to Avoid for Transepidermal Water Loss
The second way to avoid TEWL and increase skin hydration levels is to avoid harsh cleansers, over-exfoliation, or drying/astringent ingredients. Avoiding these types of products and habits is ideal for so many aspects of skin health, a healthy and hydrated skin barrier and they can be the number one culprit of dry, dehydrated skin.
Products to Increase Skin Hydration
Cleanse the skin however applies to your needs and immediately follow with a water-based toner and SERUM. Water-based serums are very watery (not jelly or creamy) at room temperature. The molecules are much smaller and therefore have a better chance of penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin. We want those hydrating, smaller molecules going to work deep within the skin not just the surface layer. Then you want moisturizer and/or oil application to seal everything in. During this step the product should feel the most thick and creamy - AKA moisturizing!! This your occlusive layer. And ofcourse, finishing your skincare morning routine with a mineral sunscreen to protect from UV exposure.